BE IN-SPA-eD

The small spa town of Chaudfontaine is the home of the only hot water springs in Belgium. It sits in a valley surrounded by the high forests of the Ardennes just a few kilometres outside Liege. Château des Thermes is on the edge of the village on the banks of the river Vesdres. It was built at the end of the nineteenth century and is now an exclusive spa. We arrived in the middle of February after a very straightforward three-hour drive from the Channel ports along empty motorways, only using local roads for the last few kilometres. Outside the chateau and grounds were covered in a white powdering of snow, but inside everything was luxurious and warm.

The spa is divided into three areas: the main chateau houses the spas and restaurant areas; the luxurious guest accommodation is in an extended former stable block; and a modern ‘clinic' annexe sits discreetly back from the building where medical esthétique procedures take place. The décor throughout is gorgeous. The formal dining room is traditional but the rest of the rooms mix antiques with contemporary pieces. Strong, bold colours and stunning chandeliers combine with a strong Asian influence. The result manages to create something that is relaxing but chic.

So what would it be like to put your focus and energy on the word 'nourishment' this New Year? How can you nourish yourself in 2009? From ditching the rice cakes and eating only things that taste great (but don't make you feel guilty) to creating your own home-spa, make a commitment to ONLY doing things that delight you. Banish all shoulds, oughts or musts. Apply delicious lotions and potions, play soothing music, eat cake in the bath, indulge. Ask yourself – if I could improve my wellbeing by nourishing my mind, body and soul – how would I do that?

The real pièce de résistance of the chateau is the hot outdoor thermal pool. It looks like a large formal pond but its steaming waters are filled with underwater jets and a central Jacuzzi area. It leads directly from a glass orangery from where lucky dippers can go from the centrally heated luxury of wooden loungers down a tiled ramp straight into the pool. During our first swim in the naturally heated 34C waters, snowflakes landed on our upturned faces - it was quite magical.

Residents staying for a few days and day visitors alike are clad in swimming costumes under the spa's regulation white towelling dressing gowns and slippers. Everywhere reminders were posted insisting that bathing costumes must be worn under peignoirs at all times. Had they had problems, we wondered, with a visiting busload of Scandinavians?

Our room - a chambre confort - was large, and tastefully furnished with an incredibly smart bathroom. Breakfast and lunch at the chateau are served buffet-style in the chic casual dining room while dinner is a formal affair in the main dining room. All the food is excellent with lots of fruit and vegetables but - this was Belgium after all - meat, fish and dairy products are very much in evidence too, as is wine. There is even champagne on hand for hardcore guests to indulge in a breakfast buck's fizz.

There were lots of couples when we were there and the men seemed to enjoy the vast array of treatments as much as the ladies. The spa was obviously very popular with the locals but would it work for us? My husband was content with a good book and a swimming pool - he was spoilt for choice with a vast indoor pool, watched over by a benign Buddha, and the hot outdoor pool. I was determined to try the treatments, which mainly have an Eastern influence: Japanese tea ceremony facials, Ayurvedic massages and Balinese flower rituals are just some of the exotic treats on offer.

I started with Balneotherapy, a signiature treatment of the hot springs. This involved lying in a bath filled with spa waters which spurted mineral-rich spumes of water from specially positioned jets at various parts of me. I bubbled away for 20 luxurious minutes in a darkened room while strobe-style lights emanated from the bath. It was relaxing and definately good for the skin. Next, I tried the massage au bamboo, which sounded a little dubious, but I needn't have worried; the bamboo was used to roll hot oils into the skin rather like rolling pastry. Smaller canes worked over the kidney and stomach areas. The oils smelled delicious and were very light. It works on lymphatic drainage principles, much like a hand-delivered massage, but the pressure exerted can be stronger.

Prices at the Château des Thermes start at 99 euros per person per night, for two sharing a double room. This includes use of the spa facilities but all treatments are extra. Visit www.chateaudesthermes.be.
We stayed as guests of the Belgium Tourist Board and travelled across the Channel with SeaFrance, the only French operator on the Dover to Calais route offering an authentic French experience. SeaFrance operates up to 15 daily return sailings aboard it's fleet of super ferries. Prices for a car and up to 5 people start at £25 each way, any duration, and from £25 return for a day trip.
To book or for more information visit www.seafrance.comor call 0871 22 22 500