Power of Attraction

Karena Callen reveals the golden rules of looking (and smelling) good on a first date...

Palpitations? Tick. Feeling hot and bothered? Tick. Bedroom floor covered in a layer of inappropriate (too tight, too small, too short, too baggy) outfits? Tick. Dressing table over-spilling with newly-purchased cosmetics? Tick. If this scenario strikes a chord, then you are obviously in the throes of "first date frenzy". And you are not alone. I can still recall those butterfly moments of my second-time-around first date, the dilemmas no different to those of my teens. Hair poker straight or mussed up? Smoky eyes or keep it natural? Barely-there lipstick or pout-enhancing lipgloss? The list goes on. Whether you are embarking on a post-split romance or have been footloose and fancy free, waiting patiently for Mr Right, the rules of attraction still apply. It may have been a decade or more since you were last in this position, but things haven't changed when it comes to making yourself totally irresistible. Of course, one man's irresistible is another man's unapproachable, so go easy on artifice. This is not the time for false lashes, multi-coloured make-up and a fragrance that will asphyxiate him when he leans in for a first kiss. Nor is it the time to be overly formal. Leave touch-me-not hair and matte lips in the boardroom. Remember, this is a date, not a job interview. Your aim is to charm and captivate, not to "seal the deal".

Be Yourself: Rule no.1 - and possibly the most important rule of all. Unless you haven't met before, your date has already made up his mind (in the first three-second glance) that he's interested. So, to state the obvious, do not turn up looking like a completely different person to the one he has already met! Aim to look fresh, groomed (hair and brows looking kempt and cared for, without being glued into place) and as "natural" as possible. "This isn't the time to attempt a totally new look," counsels make-up artist, Lisa Eldridge, (tune in to her addictive make-up classes on www.lisaeldridge.com) who is responsible for making-up the likes of Liz Hurley and Cate Blanchet.

Skin Deep: Be admired (and thus remembered) for great skin, not great make-up. Begin by prepping skin a few days before your date. According to the latest thinking, beautiful skin is "happy" skin which has a glow, is evenly hydrated and doesn't show signs of uneven pigmentation. Invest time and effort on twice-daily cleansing with a gentle, but effective cleanser. Buffing skin gently (emphasis on gentle) as you cleanse with a muslin cloth or flannel will help remove dead skin cells and stimulate circulation, both of which add up to radiance. If you like a creamy cleanser but also like to add water, try This Works Clean Skin, £20, which is deliciously purifying and hydrating, leaving skin super-soft and ultra-clean. Aquaphobes will prefer Paul & Joe Light Cleansing Milk, £16, which can be massaged in and tissued off. Step up on reparative skin treats to soothe, even-out and replenish. Serums are key cosseters as they are intensive yet easily absorbed. Keep an eye out for formulas that contain anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant ingredients, such as vitamin E and C. Decleor's Aromessence Rose D'Orient Soothing Serum, £43, is an instant rescue remedy for parched and stressed skin, while This Works Active Serum, £35, contains Vitamin C, algae and larch, to tighten, tone and repair. If you have uneven pigmentation, invest in Clinique Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector, £38, a miracle worker that minimises age spots and acne scars.

Prime Time: Up until recently, I considered skin primers to be an unnecessary indulgence - and to be frank, a waste of time and money. However, with every passing year, I have come to appreciate their value. Think of a primer as a really good piece of "lingerie" for the skin. It's invisible but essential in maintaining flawless, natural-looking skin, no matter how many or few layers of make-up you choose to apply. "Make-up will linger longer on a primed skin," confirms Jo Phillips, National Make-Up Artist for Paul & Joe. "It allows you to use less base, so you'll never look ';cakey', and does double-duty by controlling shine." Many primers have added benefits, such as moisturisers, radiance-boosting pigments and firming ingredients to give skin an "instant lift". For a foolproof, under-make-up treat, Clarins Beauty Flashbalm, £27, is like La Perla lingerie for the skin. It preps, lifts and brightens, ensuring that make-up stays in place. Make-up artists swear by Paul & Joe Moisturising Foundation Primer, £22 with its skin-perfecting properties. If you want to skip foundation altogether, it primes, protects and covers imperfections in one.

Base Camp: When it comes to picking and applying a foundation for your first date, think skin - only better. "You want your date to notice your great skin, not your foundation," says Lisa Eldridge. Pick a formulation that "melts" into your skin, rather than sitting on the surface.

Fluid foundations and tinted moisturisers are best, as they glide on and create a light, dewy finish. For a super-natural effect, Chanel Vitalumiere Satin Smoothing Fluid Makeup, SPF 15, £33, is a favourite with models, make-up artists and beauty editors (including myself!) as it gives just the right amount of coverage. If skin needs extra help on the luminosity-front, Lancôme Teint Miracle, £25.55, fakes an inner glow, if yours has somewhat faded. My budget failsafe is Rimmel Recover Illuminating Anti-Fatigue Foundation, £7.19, with added Vitamin C and E. It's no less than genius if you are a little bit under the weather, as it really makes skin look fresh. Finish by dusting translucent powder across your T-zone to combat shine.

Cheek To Cheek: According to zoologist, Desmond Morris, women originally adopted blusher to re-create a natural, sexual flush. But whilst a rosy blush will definitely send out all the right signals, you don't want to end up looking like you're running a high temperature (or having a hot flush). Pick a shade that gives your skin a healthy bloom. Peaches and pinks are the perfect choice for most skin tones, and if you can find a shade that mimics your own "blush", that's even better. Powder blushers work best on oily and combination complexions, whilst creams gels and tints are preferable for dry to normal skins. Take a leaf out of Julianne Moore's book and pep-up cheeks with Benefit Posie Tint, £24.50. Or for a cream-to-powder finish, Paul & Joe Creamy Powder Blusher in Kitten or Peaches, £18, blends seamlessly into cheeks. Powder blush fans should opt for Max Factor Flawless Perfection Blush in Classic Rose, £7, which creates a credible bloom when dusted on to the plumpest part of your cheeks.

Eye Contact: Prolonged eye contact is a signal that things are going well. "Playing up your eyes on a first date makes sense," says Lisa Eldridge. "You don't want to do anything too bright or distracting; just emphasise by shading and shaping." You can't go wrong with a neutral palette of mocha, caramel, beige and taupe with a little hint of gold, silver or bronze to add a "glint" at the inner corners. It makes eyes sparkle and takes nanoseconds to do. Investing in an eyeshadow palette with a choice of shades makes life simple. Use the darker shades to contour and line and the lighter shades to add shimmer and highlight. Try Dior's 5-Colours Iridescent Eyeshadow Palette in Endless Shine, £40, a foolproof combo of wearable colours; or Benefit Big Beautiful Eyes, £24.50, a kit containing all you need to emphasise eyes easily. Finish by curling your lashes and adding a few coats of mascara, and that's all you need to hold his gaze.

Kiss and Tell: Unless you are known for your fire-engine red pout, first-date lips are best kept within the natural spectrum. "Strong lip colours are best avoided on a first date," says Jo Phillips. "And he definitely won't try to kiss you if you are wearing red lipstick!" The best policy is to keep it simple. Line your lips with a lip-toned liner such as No 7 Perfect Lips Liner in Nude, £7.50, and then colour-in with a lipstick or very sheer (but not too sticky) gloss. Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Shine in 26, £22.50, is a part way between a lipstick and a gloss and makes lips look kissable. My current must-have lip booster is Paul & Joe Lipstick in Debutante, £15, which creates the impression of fuller lips without looking like you're wearing anything.

Scent of A Woman: When it comes to attraction, fragrance, whether it's our natural "scent" created by pheromones, the smell of our hair, skin or perfume, really comes into play. Obviously, it's a matter of personal taste what you (and ultimately, your date) prefer, but perfume aficionados caution against wearing anything that enters the room before you, or that doesn't blend comfortably with your own smell. "A fragrance should be faithful to your style and combine beautifully with your natural skin scent, rather than masking it," says Virginie Daniau, director of Parfum Parfait (www.parfumparfait.com). Daniau's expertise enables you to find your perfect fragrance from an extensive library of scents (consultations from £65). And for those who can't find something that's just right, she offers a bespoke perfume service. Of course, there are certain fragrance families that are universally associated with seduction and sensuality. "Traditionally, it's the orientals and chypres that are the most sexy fragrances, but the notes that trigger a lustful response are those that come under the ';animalic' category," reveals British perfumer, Lyn Harris. But it's not just what you wear, it's the way that you wear it. For such an up-close-and-personal occasion, where you "place" your fragrance can enhance the effect. "Fragrance is for you to experience as well as those you meet," says Lyn Harris. "Think about this when choosing where to wear your scent. Applying to the décolleté is sensual and intimate, while applying it to your hair, the back of your neck or on a favourite scarf is also a very personal touch."

Sensual Scents Nicholas Shaddick, co-founder of Violetta, recommends his favourite love potions.

The sexiest perfumes tend to have floral top notes with a musk or amber base. Chypre perfumes with ambiguous, leather-like base notes, often containing resinous ingredients such as sandalwood, ambergris or oakmoss, are particularly effective in conveying sensuality, as do soft orientals and animalic scents.

Animalic: notes are those that mimic those 'bad-yet-good' scents that our bodies create naturally. Musk, in all its varieties, is the best known ingredient, but there are many others.

• Miller Harris L'Air de Rien Eau de Parfum 50 ml, £65. "A deceptively simple perfume with a top note of neroli orange blossom that opens the way to two sexy heavyweights - oakmoss and musk."
• Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan Eau de Parfum 50 ml, £89. "Opening with cumin and cinnamon over a whole host of animalic ingredients, this extraordinarily potent musk fragrance is distinctive and definitely sexy. Think dirty bed sheets, in a good way..."

Orientals: also known as 'amber' fragrances, are warm, sensual blends based on musk, vanilla and precious woods combined with rich floral and spice notes suggestive of eastern aromas.

• Miller Harris Fleur Oriental Eau de Parfum 50ml, £60."Floral but not flowery, with subtle hints of powder, spice and incense. A beautifully crafted fragrance that works equally well during the day or in the evening."
• Tom Ford Black Orchid Eau De Parfum Spray, 100ml, £82. "A glamorous oriental based on citrus, black truffle, patchouli, and vanilla, it begins sweetly, hints at a dark, woody heart but settles down to creamy vanilla and earthy notes."

Chypre: perfumes have various citrus, herbaceous, floral and animalic elements, but all tend to have a "warm" and "woody" theme, contain oak moss and usually amber.

• Clinique Aromatics Elixir 100 ml, £39. "A distinctive, highly potent classic that even purports to have aromatherapeutic benefits. Top notes of coumarin and rose barely contain the intensity of the patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver base."
• Noir Epices by Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle, 100ml £140. "A retro-style chypre from one of my favourite parfumiers, Frederic Malle. Orange and rose are quickly joined by clove, black pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg, with woody notes swirling underneath. A class act."

Karena and Nick's boutique Violetta Perfumery and Beauty Apothecary can be found at 110 High Street, Rye. Miller Harris, Serge Lutens, This Works and Paul & Joe are all available at Violetta. Tel. 01797 227232.