Elderflower power

For a few short weeks at this time of the year the Elder (Sambucus nigra) a straggly thug in the hedgerow, blossoms forth with fragrant, frothy umbels of creamy white. These blooms can be gathered and turned into delicately delicious Elderflower cordial in a process that's nearly as easy as making a cup of tea. Some time in May you might see me tiptoe into the chemist's wearing an assortment of disguises - in order to buy my stock of citric acid. Citric acid is one of the components of Elderflower cordial, but unfortunately it's also used in the preparation of an illicit drug, and can therefore only be sold one small packet at a time. As 50g is not enough for the amount of elderflower cordial I like to make each summer, I have to buy a packet, go out and then come back in with a hat, and/or dark glasses on and buy another. Let's hope the drug barons don't cotton on to this method of obtaining the stuff.

The Elderflower flavour comes from the pollen, so picking the umbels at the right time is probably key to making a sublime cordial. The point at which there will be most pollen is when the flower is looking at its best - fully open, but with none of the brown patches you get in older flower heads. Pick them carefully and don't shake to remove the insects as this will also shake out the pollen. If you leave them for a little while, some of the creatures will creep away and you can carefully pick off any others before, or after, immersing the flower heads in boiling sugar water (we know which is kinder). There are lots of recipes for Elderflower cordial around and they all seem to be slightly different, so choose your favourite. I've made one up so that it's easy to remember and it seems to work.

I use a kilo of sugar for every litre of water, the juice and zest of 1 large (unwaxed) lemon, 20 or so Elderflower heads and a 50g pack of that dodgy old citiric acid. Bring the sugar and water to the boil in a large saucepan, then add the other ingredients (don't wash the Elderflowers or you will lose more pollen) cover and leave to steep for 24 hours. Strain through muslin/a clean tea towel and dilute with carbonated mineral water, use as a mixer or in a recipe (see below). Store in the fridge for up to six weeks (it also freezes well). Once you remember the basic ratio, the proportions can be adapted to make whatever quantities you like. Easy-peasy lemon and Elderflower squeezy.
Elder bushes pop up like weeds at the edges of my garden and but I try to forgive them for their unruly behaviour and accommodate a few where I can. According to folklore you disturb evil spirits if you cut Elders down or dig them up. The twigs were also used by witches to make magic wands (the woody stems are soft and hollow on the inside), no doubt aided and abetted by those disturbed spirits. I do have a posh Elder - Sambucus nigra 'Black Lace' - growing in the garden and it is very pretty, with it's finely divided browny-black foliage and umbels of pale pink flowers, but it, too, is badly behaved and has to be kept in its place with severe haircuts - I'm hoping the spirits don't inhabit new-fangled cultivars, or I'll really be in for it.

If any flower heads remain on the bushes, or you are gathering from the hedgerows (do leave a few for the wildlife), go back in the autumn and collect the berries that hang in attractive, shiny blue-black clusters. These are not pleasant to eat raw - in fact most of the Elder is poisonous (containing arsenic), but the pollen and cooked berries are very good for you (lots of anti-oxidants etc). The berries can be made into wine, hedgerow jams and sauces that go well with red meats.
Last year I tried and failed to make Elderflower champagne. It sounds like the most romantic and magical Midsummer night's drink and somehow such an apt way to celebrate the solstice. I'll have another go and let you know how I get on this year. Whatever the result, let's raise our glasses and toast the high noon of the year, the longest day, and make the most of the billowy, umbelliferous gorgeousness that is the Elderflower.

Elderflower and Tarragon Chicken
Serves 4
This is an ideal meal for a summer dinner party and goes really well with first crops of peas, carrots and baby new potatoes.

• 4 chicken breasts
• handful roughly chopped tarragon
• ¼ pint single cream
• 100 ml elderflower cordial
• juice of half a lemon
• ¼ pint chicken stock
• pinch of salt
• 1 clove of garlic
• 2 tbsp butter
• level tbsp plain flour

Melt half the butter in a pan that has a lid (I use a deep frying pan - like a mini wok) and lightly cook the chicken on both sides for a couple of minutes. Add the elderflower cordial, lemon juice, chicken stock and garlic and poach the chicken gently in this liquid for approx. 15-20 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan while you make the sauce. Melt the rest of the butter in a non-stick saucepan, add the flour and mix to a thick paste, then gradually add the liquid from the chicken, stirring constantly to keep the sauce smooth. Stir in the tarragon and cream, add a pinch of salt, then pour over the chicken and put in the oven on a low setting for a further 15 mins or until you're ready to serve.
This sauce also works really well with firm fleshed white fish (monkfish or cod loin); just replace the chicken stock with water.

Elderflower jelly
Makes 4-6 small bowls, or 1 trifle sized bowl:

• 200ml elderflower cordial
• 400ml still or sparkling water
  
• 4/5 gelatine leaves
• 100g approx. white grapes/gooseberries/whitecurrants (I used grapes for this recipe, but gooseberries are in season and go so well with elderflowers)

Vanilla cream:

• small carton of double cream
• 1 tsp vanilla essence
• 1-2 tbsp icing sugar (to taste)

Soak the gelatine leaves in some water according to the instructions on the packet (5 mins or so). Bring the water to the boil, add the soaked gelatine leaves, elderflower cordial and stir. Place the fruit in the bowl(s) you're serving the jelly in, pour the jelly mixture in to cover the fruit and leave to set in the fridge for at least 2-3 hours (up to 48 hours) before serving. Whip the cream until 'soft peak' stage (it needs to be spoonable), then mix in the vanilla and icing sugar. Serve a scoop of cream with the jelly. Lemon cream works really well too - just substitute the vanilla with the juice of half a lemon.

Jo Arnell runs practical gardening workshops from her home in Woodchurch. To find out more visit www.hornbrookmanor.co.uk or call 01233 861186.