Spear Carriers

After this long cold winter the season may be kicking off a little late this year but May for me means English asparagus. Here in the Weald we have great conditions for growing this sumptuous vegetable, so much so that this year I am finding room in my own veg garden to plant a couple of short rows.

I won’t be able to pick my own asparagus for a year or two yet but luckily local farmers’ markets and farm shops are the ideal place to buy fresh just-cut asparagus. Michael Bourne of Groombridge Farm Shop will be picking his early asparagus for the Asparagus Festival taking place at Penshurst Farmers’ Market on 1 May so I will get my first fix there but this season should really kick off in mid to late May and run until the end of June, so keep visiting your own markets and pick-your-own farms.

The secret with asparagus is to cook and eat it as soon as possible after picking so don’t put it in the veg drawer of the fridge and forget about it for a few days. And when it comes to cooking the stuff I think the simpler the better to really appreciate the flavour. Premium spears need very little fuss and perfect partners are eggs, butter and cheese, particularly strong salty types such as Parmesan.

At the beginning of the season I enjoy my asparagus like soldiers simply dipped into lightly boiled eggs. Then I move on to hollandaise sauce or melted butter, before running through scrambled eggs with chives and grated Parmesan stirred in, a simple asparagus omelette, luxurious risotto or one of the recipes shown here. The short eight-week season doesn’t leave time to get bored and by next year I may even be cutting a spear or two of my own.

Asparagus and goat’s cheese tart

I make this luxurious tart regularly when asparagus is in season. It’s perfect for a lunch or to take on a picnic. Use sprue or the cheaper spears that many growers sell for soups and cooking. For the best results it’s well worth searching out a good strong-flavoured goat’s cheese such as the Wealdway Mature from Nut Knowle Farm in East Sussex (www.nutknowlefarm.com for stockists) that I’ve used here. It will make all the difference to the final flavour. Serve warm or cold.

Serves: 4-6. Prepare: 20 mins. Cook: 50-55 mins

• 175g plain flour
• pinch of salt
• 75g butter, diced

For the filling:

• 250g bunch asparagus, trimmed
• 6 spring onions, sliced
• 100g local goat’s cheese
• 2 tbsp grated Parmesan
• 150ml double cream
• 150ml milk
• 3 egg yolks
• 1 egg
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat oven to 200C gas mark 6. Sift flour with salt into a mixing bowl and rub in butter using fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs. Sprinkle over 2-3 tbsp cold water and mix to a firm dough with the blade of a knife. Turn onto a lightly floured work surface and knead lightly. Wrap in cling wrap and chill for 15 mins.

2Roll out the pastry on a floured work surface and use to line a 23cm (9in) loose-bottomed flan tin. Chill again for 10 minutes then line with crumpled paper, fill with dried beans and bake for 10 minutes. Remove the beans and bake for a further 5 minutes.

3 Reduce the oven temperature to 180C gas mark 4. Cook the asparagus in simmering water for 5-6 minutes until just tender. Drain well and run under cold water to stop it cooking any further. Drain again and pat dry with kitchen paper. Heat some butter in a small pan, add the spring onions and cook gently for 5 minutes until soft. Scatter the onion over the base of the tart and scatter with the crumbled goat’s cheese. Arrange the asparagus on top and sprinkle with the Parmesan.

4 Whisk together the cream, milk, egg yolks and egg. Season well and pour over the asparagus. Bake the tart for 35-40 mins until golden and set.

Aga cooks: You don’t need to bake the pastry blind in the Aga. Simply cook the tart on the floor of the roasting oven for 45-50 minutes, sliding in the cold shelf on the third set of runners after 20 minutes so that the tart doesn’t overbrown. Cook’s tip: Use ready-made shortcrust pastry made with butter if you don’t want to make your own. You will need 250g.

Tagliatelle with asparagus tips and semi dried tomatoes

Early tomatoes still lack flavour in May but drying them with a drizzle of olive oil and basil intensifies their impact in a dish. Last year I was inundated with cherry tomatoes that I grew in pots on the terrace. They all seemed to ripen at once so I used this technique and then stored them in olive oil to use through the winter. They go well here in this vegetarian pasta dish, adding a rich flavour that makes a good partner to the asparagus.

Serves: 2. Prepare: 10 mins. Cook: 1 hour

• 100g cherry tomatoes
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 6 leaves fresh basil, shredded
• 200g fresh egg tagliatelle
• 125g asparagus tips
• 4-6 tbsp dry white wine
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 160C gas mark 3. Halve the tomatoes and arrange over the base of a small roasting tin. Drizzle with half the olive oil and scatter over the basil. Season and cook in the oven for 1 hour until shrivelled.

2 Five mins before the tomatoes are ready, cook the asparagus tips in simmering water for 2-3 mins then drain and refresh under cold water to stop cooking. Drain and pat dry on kitchen paper. Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling water for 3-4 mins or according to packet instructions until tender.

3 Heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan, add the asparagus tips and cook for a minute. Add the wine and tomatoes with any juices and simmer till the wine is reduced by half. Season. Drain the pasta and toss with the asparagus and tomatoes. Serve with grated Parmesan if desired. Aga cooks: You can dry tomatoes in the simmering oven to use in this dish and in the future. Prepare as above then cook on the bottom shelf of the simmering oven for 2 hours until shrivelled. Layer up in clean jars and cover completely with a good extra virgin olive oil. Seal and store for a couple of months. Store in the fridge once opened and use within a week.

Griddled asparagus with Parmesan and pine nut dressing

I like cooking asparagus this way for a change, either in a ridged griddle pan or if the weather allows, on the barbecue. It really intensifies the flavour, and this dressing with its salty tang and creamy texture is an ideal partner.

Serves: 4. Prepare: 15 mins. Cook: 10 mins

• 500g fresh asparagus, trimmed
• olive oil for brushing

For the dressing:

• 30g pine nuts
• 1 garlic clove
• 4 tbsp grated Parmesan
• 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Prepare the dressing first. Place the pine nuts and garlic in a pestle and mortar or small blender and pound/process to give a smooth paste. Work in the Parmesan and then drizzle in the olive oil a little at a time to create a thick dressing. Season to taste.

2 Brush the griddle pan with a little oil and cook the asparagus spears for 8-10 minutes until lightly charred and tender, turning them regularly and brushing with olive oil to stop them drying out. Transfer to serving plates and spoon over the dressing. Serve with good bread to mop up the juices. Cook’s tip: Store the dressing in a screw-topped jar in the fridge for up to 4 days. It goes well with salad leaves or roasted Mediterranean vegetables. Another tip is to cut the asparagus into lengths, toss with freshly cooked pasta and the dressing for a light lunch.

Visit www.britishasparagus.co.uk or check out www.bigbarn.co.uk for information on all kinds of local growers and suppliers from farm shops to markets. Simply put in your postcode to find your nearest source of asparagus.