OVER THE COALS

Barbecued beetroot, new potato and spring onion kebabs
  • photographs David Merewether
  • recipes Mary Gwynn

As editor of Vegetarian Good Food magazine over fifteen years ago, I was asked to write several cookery books, all unsurprisingly meat free. The most unexpected request, however, was for a barbecue book, and like the editor of this magazine when I suggested a meat free barbecue feature, my initial reaction was sceptical. Was it possible to come up with a whole book's worth of interesting barbecue recipes without using meat or fish?

Well, I wrote the book (now sadly out of print but available on Amazon second-hand) and my attitude to barbecues and barbecue food changed. No longer were my outdoor efforts to be restricted to charred sausages and hamburgers that were burnt on the outside and raw in the centre; the inspiration of Asian and Mediterranean cooking styles showed me another approach. Searing, grilling and roasting techniques are used in these cuisines to seal in flavours, and are just as applicable to vegetables as to meat. So my barbecues became events of colour and caramelised flavours.

The three recipes here have developed from writing that book into regulars in my bbq repertoire. I am hoping that this summer I may get the chance to cook them again in the great outdoors. Since I moved back to Kent two years ago this June the new barbecue I brought with me has stayed in its box but as I write this the signs from the forecasters are promising a blistering summer. This may not be the case when you read this but then like me, you can cook the recipes inside on a grill and they will be almost as good.

Vegetarian Barbecue Tips

  • Brush the barbecue grill with oil before and during use to prevent food from sticking
  • Use wooden skewers as metal ones will break up delicate veg. Soak the skewers in cold water for half an hour before using to stop them burning
  • The exception is for root vegetables which need metal to conduct the heat to the middle to promote quick thorough cooking
  • If cooking small delicate veg line a corner of the grill rack with heavy duty foil and pierce it with a skewer to stop the veg falling through
  • For even cooking make sure all food is at room temperature before placing on the barbecue
  • Keep a water spray to hand to damp down any flare-ups
  • You can buy long handled grill baskets (for burgers and fish).Use them and then you can turn vegetables easily

Couscous with spiced barbecued vegetables

Couscous with spiced barbecued vegetables

Have the couscous base all ready prepared and simply barbecue the veg, slice and stir in for a wonderful salad that either stands alone or can be piled into warm pitta bread with barbecued lamb kebabs

Serves 6. Prepare: 15 minutes. Cook: 15-20 minutes

  • 225g couscous
  • 350ml hot vegetable stock or water
  • 4 tbsp olive oil
  • ½ tsp each ground ginger, cinnamon and smoked paprika
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 1 medium red onion, halved
  • 1 aubergine, thinly sliced lengthways
  • 2 small courgettes, thinly sliced lengthways
  • 1 red pepper, halved and seeded
  • 25g toasted pine nuts
  • 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 3 tbsp each freshly chopped flat leaf parsley, basil and mint
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Prepare the barbecue. Place the couscous in a bowl and pour over the hot stock or water. Leave to stand for 15 minutes stirring occasionally to break up any lumps. Mix together half the olive oil, spices, garlic and seasoning.

2. Brush all the vegetables on both/all sides with the spiced oil and place on the barbecue. Cook for 10 - 15 minutes turning occasionally and brushing with the oil until the vegetables are tender and lightly charred.

3. Remove the vegetables from the barbecue and cut them into thin strips. Stir into the couscous with any remaining oil and add the pine nuts, vinegar and chopped herbs. Check the seasoning and serve.

Local food tip: Add 125g cubed feta or goat's cheese for a more substantial salad. Nut Knowle Farm has a good range of suitable goat's cheeses.

Barbecued beetroot, new potato and spring onion kebabs with walnut Stilton pesto

Barbecued beetroot, new potato and spring onion kebabs with walnut Stilton pesto

Fresh baby beetroot can be cooked wrapped in foil and tucked straight in amongst the barbecue coals so you don't use up space on the grid, or as here parboiled then brushed with oil, then put on skewers with potatoes and onions

Serves 4. Prepare: 10 minutes. Cook: 6 minutes

  • 300g small new potatoes, scrubbed
  • 400g bunch baby beetroot, scrubbed and topped and tailed
  • 16 shallots, peeled
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
  • 16 - 20 fresh bay leaves
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the walnut Stilton pesto

  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1 tsp capers
  • 25g walnut halves
  • 6 tbsp chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 50g Stilton, crumbled

1. Prepare the barbecue. First make the pesto. Coarsely chop the garlic, capers and walnut pieces. Place in a blender or food processor with the parsley. Process until smooth then gradually drizzle in half the lemon juice and rind, and the olive oil. Stir in the Stilton. Season to taste and set aside.

2. Cook the potatoes and beetroot in separate pans of simmering water for 5 minutes. Drain and mix the warm vegetables with the oil, remaining lemon juice and rind and seasoning. Leave to marinate for 15 minutes.

3. Thread the vegetables onto skewers with the bayleaves and cook on the barbecue for 15 - 20 minutes turning occasionally and brushing with the marinade. Serve with the pesto spooned over.

Local food tip: The pesto goes wonderfully with locally caught fish such as lemon sole or mackerel, which are at their best at this time of year. It will store in a sealed container in the fridge for up to 3 days. If you don't have time to make your own try the Parsley, watercress and rocket pesto from Ouse Valley Foods available at farm shops in the area. For strict vegetarians make sure the Stilton you use is made with vegetarian rennet.

Barbecued peaches with sticky toffee sauce and ice cream

Barbecued peaches with sticky toffee sauce and ice cream

Most people might have had a go at barbecuing bananas but plenty of other fruit works really well cooked over the coals. Try this recipe with slices of fresh pineapple, strawberries and sliced bananas threaded onto skewers, or as here, with ripe peaches or nectarines. Cook them on the dying embers of the barbecue but make sure you have enough heat left to char the fruit to really get a good flavour

Serves 4. Prepare: 15 minutes. Cook: 5-8 minutes

  • 25g butter
  • 1 tbsp local honey
  • ½ tsp ground cinnamon
  • 4 large ripe peaches, halved and stoned

For the toffee sauce

  • 125g unrefined light brown sugar
  • 4 tbsp double cream
  • 50g butter, cubed
  • ½ tsp vanilla extract

1. Prepare the sticky toffee sauce first. Place the sugar, cream, butter and vanilla together in a small non-stick pan and heat until melted. Simmer, stirring, for 5 minutes until thick and golden and set aside in a warm place.

2. Melt the butter with the honey and cinnamon and brush over the peaches. Place on the barbecue and cook for 5 - 8 minutes turning occasionally and brushing with the butter until golden and cooked through.

3. Serve the peaches with the warmed sauce and scoops of vanilla ice cream.

Local food tip: Serve with Taywell vanilla ice cream. You can also use the Dulce de leche sauce made by Merchant Gourmet, available from supermarkets, if you don't want to make your own sauce.

Mary Gwynn is a highly respected food writer and editorial consultant, who works with companies such as Waitrose and the BBC. Formerly Editor in Chief of The M&S Magazine she has also worked for magazines such as Good Housekeeping, Woman and Home and BBC Good Food and Vegetarian Good Food as a food writer and editor, and has written several cookery books. Now based in Kent, she is currently working with Stack House Cookery School near Sevenoaks as a teacher, running bespoke cookery courses for students from her own kitchen, and writing recipes for Waitrose and other clients