Common Sorrel

The Weald clay does not always appear an asset, hanging from one’s boots in great sticky clods, but we have its underlying, acidic influence to thank for many of our fine plants - common sorrel included.

Common sorrel is an early spring herb which reaches culinary perfection in April, though it may be found much earlier, pushing its arrow-shaped leaves through the tired winter sward. Leaf shape aside, the plant resembles a small dock, which, as summer progresses, extends a tall flower head first hung with small green flowers and later sprays of rusty red seed. The best aid to recognition, however, is the herb’s refreshing, acidic taste which is quite unmistakable and fear not – accidentally munching a few dock leaves on the road to identification will do you no harm!

Acetic acid (the acid found in vinegar) is the constituent that gives sorrel its distinctive flavour and its presence within the plant is implied by its botanical name Rumex acetosa and common names such as vinegar plant. Children, with their curious penchant for all things sour, seem particularly keen on the young leaves, as do the caterpillars of the small copper butterfly for which sorrel is a principal foodstuff.

Sorrel has long been used as both herb and vegetable and like all popular wild plants has been cultivated and ‘improved’ to create garden varieties. Again, it is sorrel’s tartness which lends it so well to culinary use, lightening heavy vegetable dishes and cutting the richness of fatty meats or oily fish.

Infinitely versatile, the leaves can be pureed raw to make a delicate, piquant salsa verde, wilted like spinach or added to a plethora of dishes from soup to omelette. An everyday favourite is a warm salad of new potatoes, tossed with wilted sorrel and olive oil, but for something a little special try this starter. It combines the last of winter’s harvest with the first pickings of spring, a sublime celebration of the changing seasons.

Warm the cockles with spring sorrel

• olive oil
• 3 rashes streaky bacon
• 250 g cooked cockle meat
• 1 handful common sorrel roughly cut

Slice bacon and fry in oil until slightly browned.

Add cockles and fry for two minutes.

Add sorrel, stirring and frying until wilted.

Season and serve piled in ramekins with crusty bread.