Michael White ponders...The Blackberry
Though blackberries are probably one of the best-known fruity freebies, they remain a woefully under-used resource, as does the plant which bears them. So, even if you've been eating blackberries for years, I invite you to read on.
The Weald is positively heaving with bramble plants and few people are unfamiliar with their sweet fruit, but the plants themselves are widely overlooked despite having just as many uses. Tannins found in the leaves and root bark make them useful remedies for many ailments, especially sore throats, and an infusion of root bark, leaves, blackberries and honey was a traditional cure for colds. In spring the plants produce long, luscious shoots which can be employed to create a potent country wine, eaten in salads or cooked as a vegetable and the fibrous canes have even been used to produce twine.
Were there a marketing body for blackberries they would be pronounced a 'super food' overnight as they contain sufficient antioxidants and vitamins to put the terribly trendy blueberry to shame. A word of warning however, traditionally blackberries were never picked past Michaelmas, as it was believed that on this day, the devil himself came and defiled the fruit in a most unsavoury manner!
Blackberries are well known for their use in traditional dishes, but there is a limit to the number of summer puddings, pies and crumbles one can eat during the season. To make the most of this fantastic crop and save space in the freezer, I make blackberry cordial, thereby capturing all the goodness and flavour of the fruit whilst doing away with the rather tedious pips. I use this intense extract for all sorts, including ice lollies, pouring over ice cream, making hot winter drinks and adding to other stewed fruits, or for a treat try and mix up a Kir Royal, replacing the cassis with blackberry cordial. It makes a stunning drink and a fitting toast to the bounteous blackberry.
1 place blackberries in a pan
2 add cold water until it is level with the top of the fruit
3 bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 30 minutes
4 strain fruit without pressing and reserve the liquor
5 dissolve 400g of sugar (or to taste) in every 500ml of liquor
6 return the cordial to the boil
7 simmer for five minutes and seal in sterilised bottles