Hairy Bittercress

April brings with it the realisation that the overwintered garden desperately needs some attention. The forks come out and battle commences but amidst the furore, don't forget the free food which may be masquerading as weeds in the veg plot and flower borders. Regular readers will, no doubt, already be alert to dandelions and young nettles, but what about hairy bittercress?

The name hairy bittercress does this edible plant a grave disservice. It conjures up a spiny, acrid-tasting black sheep of the cress family, but in reality the plant is rather delicate and superbly flavoured. Admittedly it is better known as a rampant weed than for its salad greens, but this is understandable. The plants can grow and set seed in only five weeks and the spring-loaded seed heads catapult the seeds up to about half a metre, meaning the plants spread fast and are difficult to suppress.

As its weed status suggests, hairy bittercress is very common on cultivated land but can also be found growing in less hospitable places such as gaps in concrete and stony ground. The plant is small and forms initially as a rosette of leaves, each consisting of a central stalk supporting rounded leaflets on either side. As the plant develops, flowering stems emerge to produce a number of simple white flowers. These stems also possess leaves which are of similar structure to the young foliage but with thinner, more pointed leaflets. However, anyone familiar with watercress will most likely recognise hairy bittercress as a relative.

Plants still in the floret stage are the ones to gather for eating. These young leaves are by no means bitter and have the same beautiful peppery tang as rocket or watercress, making them ideal for salads. For something a little different though, try the recipe below. The luxurious cr�me fraîche and punchy cress leaves combine to complement the smoked trout wonderfully the perfect quick meal after a hard day weeding in the garden!

The rough with the smooth

• One portion of cooked smoked trout
• Handful of young bitter cress leaves
• Half a tub of cr�me fraîche
• Seasoning

• Cut cress leaves finely
• Combine cut leaves with cr�me fraîche and season to taste
• Serve a generous dollop of the mixture alongside the cold smoked trout

(Have you braved any of my recipes? Any comments? You can email me at wildfood@hotmail.co.uk)