Michael White ponders...Wood Sorrel

Wood sorrel (oxalis acetosella) is not to be confused with the unrelated common sorrel (rumex acetosa), although they are both edible and have a similarly piquant flavour. As its Latin name suggests, the pleasant sharpness in wood sorrel is caused by oxalic acid, which incidentally is the same substance that gives rhubarb its distinctive character. If consumed in very large quantities, oxalic acid can cause stomach upsets, but used in the quantities any other herb would be, wood sorrel is completely harmless and makes a wonderful ingredient. This common plant grows in damp woodland and is even found in conifer plantations, being one of the few plants that can tolerate their heavy shade and acidic conditions. Low and creeping by habit, wood sorrel has leaves which unfurl into small shamrocks – striking and almost luminous green in colour. Simple white flowers appear in late March and hang facing downwards on delicate stems, giving rise to one of the plant's numerous regional names 'fairy bells'.

This herb has long been used in the kitchen, most noticeably in French provincial cooking where it is interchangeable with common sorrel for many recipes. The young leaves and stems can be sweated in butter then reduced with cream to produce a rich yet piquant sauce, or used raw as an attractive and tasty garnish. However, wood sorrel's spectacular qualities are best employed to balance rich meats such as the confit of duck in this sophisticated starter.

'Sorrel-full' Spring Duck

1 leg of duck confit
Small bowl of mixed salad leaves
Small bunch of wood sorrel
Extra virgin olive oil
Pepper

• Roast duck leg in very hot oven until skin is crisp
• Drain excess fat from roasting tin, then shred meat and skin from the bone using 2 forks
• Combine wood sorrel with salad leaves and dress lightly with oil
• Pile salad onto two plates and top with the warm shredded duck
• Season with pepper only as the duck contains sufficient salt