Michael White ponders... Water Mint
The vast majority of people consume mint in some form every day, in toothpaste, herbal tea, chewing gum and other products, but few have picked it in the wild or even know it grows there.
There are several varieties of mint growing wild in the Weald. Water mint is the most common but one might also stumble upon other natives such as corn mint, horse mint or even apple mint, though the latter is too rare for picking. Add to these Corsican mint and spearmint, introduced species which have successfully naturalised, and one is positively spoilt for choice. The possibilities are far from ending there, however, for due to a rather relaxed attitude towards cross pollination, a host of hybrid mints are also possible, most notably peppermint, a cross between water and spearmint. The word mint is derived from ‘Menthe’ the name of a naughty nymph from Greek mythology. Hades, god of the underworld, took a fancy to her and in response, his wife Persephone turned her into a plant. Quite a punishment for being a little fresh!
As suggested by the name, water mint is a plant of damp places, marshes, ditches and streams were it can be found growing in clumps up to two foot high. The somewhat hairy leaves can vary in colour from light green to almost purple, but identification is made simple by a square cross section to the stem, bushy lilac flowers from June, leaves growing in opposing pairs and naturally, a strong smell of mint.
Water mint is interchangeable with common or garden spearmint, so I shall not insult a culinarily enabled readership with talk of lamb and new potatoes, but I shall mention its use as tea. Mint tea is of course very popular and renowned for aiding digestion, but using wild mints opens the door to a plethora of new menthol experiences. Water mint dries beautifully and a clump hung up somewhere warm just before the flowers emerge will keep you in hot beverages for the year. Strong liquor is also considered as an aid to digestion, so a mint cocktail sipped on a warm evening after a lavish meal, might almost be considered medicinal.
1 bunch water mint, 1 cup granulated sugar,
1 cup boiling water,
2 drops bitters,
1/2 lime sliced,
2 measures vodka,
crushed ice,
soda water
Add a small handful of mint and the sugar to boiling water, stir to dissolve and allow to cool. Put 5 fresh leaves, bitters and lime into a tall glass and crush slightly with a spoon. Fill glass with crushed ice. Add vodka then top up with strained mint syrup and a little soda. Cover glass, shake, garnish with mint and serve.