Dandelions

With global food shortages looming and the price of the weekly groceries rising, perhaps it is time to get out and explore some wild foods.

Early summer lays on an abundance of natural salad leaves including those of dandelions, but these superb plants offer far more than that!

Well known and considered a troublesome weed by the average Brit, dandelions are in fact cultivated for food in many other parts of the world. Perhaps we should be a little more grateful that they grow here unattended, in our gardens, fields and verges, just waiting to be picked and eaten. Every part of the plant is edible and despite its French title Pissenlit and local English names such as Pissimire and Wet-weed alluding to its reputed diuretic qualities, they are in fact negligible.

In Japan the roots are eaten Nituke style (fried, braised and served with soy sauce). I prefer using them to make a delicious coffee like drink. For this the roots are scrubbed, baked until brittle and almost black, ground and brewed in the same manner as fresh coffee. The result is surprisingly like the real thing and its slight sharpness is rounded beautifully by rich caramel flavours.

For those who enjoy chicory, dandelion leaves are definitely worth a try. Pick the young leaves from the centre of the plant and use them to add some 'bite' to any salad. For a further stunning addition try tossing in some of the flowers as well. If the leaves are too bitter for your taste, stand them in fresh water overnight before use. Alternatively try cutting all the leaves off a few plants and covering the stumps with flower pots. The blanched leaves that appear are milder but still delicious.

The classic French dish below uses the dandelion's natural piquancy to cut the oily richness of smoked streaky bacon. It's quick, attractive and the perfect accompaniment to any light summer meal.

Salade de Pissenlits

• Bowlful of chopped young dandelions (soaked or blanched if too bitter for your taste)
• A few dandelion flowers
• Approx. 300g dry-cured streaky bacon cut into strips or cubes
• 2 tbsp of white wine vinegar
• Ground black pepper

• Fry bacon until some fat runs out but do not make it crisp.
• Pour the whole contents of the pan over the leaves.
• Put white wine vinegar in emptied pan and boil briefly.
• Pour vinegar over the leaves.
• Add pepper to taste and garnish with flowers.
• Eat promptly before the dressing becomes cold.