Wild foods are still seen by most as a novelty, but they surely deserve a more regular place in our kitchens.
After all they seem to tick all the boxes currently in vogue; fresh, traceable (there's no better traceability than picking food yourself), organic, healthy, free and often delicious. Furthermore, with a bit of guidance everyone can collect wild food, the flavour of which will be a revelation.
On a serious note, sharing in the wild harvest demands a respect for the countryside and foraging must always be done responsibly. Mostly it's common sense but it's particularly important when picking leaves fruit or flowers, to only take a small number from each plant so it's not seriously damaged.
Jack-by-the-Hedge, also known as Garlic Mustard is a common plant possessing a uncommonly fine flavour akin to mild garlic. It's an early plant of hedgerows and woodland edges, where it grows up to one metre in height. Identifying features include large, pointed and slightly toothed bright green leaves, which emit a mild smell of garlic when bruised, flowers which form a cluster of white florets at the top of the slender stem between April and June and following these, small seed pods containing tiny black seeds.
The plant is a wild member of the cabbage family with medical properties reputed to help with gangrene, ulcers and sore throats. Its culinary use has a long history with good reason and when used to prepare garlic mustard potatoes, makes a perfect accompaniment to grilled oily fish or an early summer barbeque. Inspired by the Indian method of coating cooked potatoes with infused oil, this recipe really makes the most of Jack-by-the-Hedge's warm aromatic qualities and looks superb, flecked with bright green, glistening leaves and tiny black seeds.
Peel and boil potatoes until tender but not falling apart. Drain and leave to dry.
When cool enough to handle, roughly cut the potatoes into large cubes.
Heat oil in a wok or large pan. Add mustard seeds and stir.
After a few seconds add the chopped leaves and stir until just wilted.
Add salt and pepper to taste and stir in potatoes carefully using a metal spoon, until all the cubes are covered in the herb and oil mix.
Serve warm.